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So it was important to find the problem and get it fixed before we caused greater problems in our electrical system. While soldering make make good warm-up of soldering spots and use flux, this must give you good shiny mirror-like soldering and will guarantee long work of the device. However, when using INSTRUCTION language, you should never use words left open to interpretation. Make sure the wiring in all circumstances is done accurately since any misconnection will damage your regulator and generator.

The CPU paste will do fine. Hook up voltage regulator new alternators have internal voltage regulators, meaning wiring is not necessary, but if you have an external regulator then you need to hook it up to the alternator and ignition system. It works like this. If not, than this is a u way to kill its brain. Always consult the Manufacturer's Datasheet for the voltage regulator in use for a circuit to see how to hook it up with the necessary required external components. Re: Hooking up a voltage regulator to a wind turbine system Efficiently, 5%. For a social try to understand what is the correct voltage. It shorts the AC signal of the voltage signal which is noise on the voltage signal to ground and only the DC portion of the signal goes into the regulator. The operating principles of the stabilizers are divided into limbo, linear and shunt. Now the two field wires will hook up voltage regulator connected to the two-field terminal at the alternator, but which is which. Apparently this is grease or sealant burning off the insides of the regulator so don't worry about it unless it continues after the first couple of lucifer. In this article, we use a positive voltage regulator, which outputs 5V, the LM7805 regulator.

After it comes out of the regulator, the other capacitor, the 0. Has anyone on this group had any experiences like that. Recently we picked up a cool project vehicle that has a little historical importance. In this case, we are using a LM7805, which outputs 5 volts.

Hooking up a voltage regulator to a wind turbine system - PMA is used because it is something like 10-20% more efficient over field current type alternators. You might not be able to move all of the cables across if they are quite short.

This article is made due to many queries after the post about DeadBug Prototyping, so I've decided to make a whole instructable to explain how the motorcycle regulator relay works and how to make it. I made my vision of it and chose my details. And wrote this article. Please do not poke me in the face with electrical engineering textbook to teach me Kirchhoff's law. Anyway, in other case you can skip it or move to Step 3. If you are OK with listed above, then you are welcome for further reading. It all started with the my friend, who have asked me to resolve the problem with Voltage Regulator on Honda X4 urgently. In Honda X4 phase wires and plus-minus wires are separated into two power connectors one has three terminals, the other - four. First, it turned out that motorcycle VR Voltage Regulator - it's not a car VR, who could have guessed ; There are two differences between them and they are very serious. Motorcycle VR is a rectifier + stabilizer. Motorcycle VR regulates the output voltage of the generator. There are motorcycles with automotive-type generators, but there are only few of them. Let's not dig into details now, it is just important to understand the main thing - an electric current has many parameters, but we need two most important of them - current and voltage. The current is measured in amperes, and the voltage is measured in volts. To understand what it is, imagine that your wire is the channel, and the current - water flowing over it. So the current is water flow rate, and the voltage - water level in the channel. For further understanding of the text that's enough. Now about stabilizer that we'll need in this project. We won't bother about rectifiers - a diode is a diode captain obvious was here. The objective of any voltage regulator - to receive a voltage and lower it to the certain desired level and hold it at that level. The operating principles of the stabilizers are divided into impulse, linear and shunt. The simplest shunt regulator is assembled from two parts - the resistor and zener diode. Zener diode, it is such a funny thing that when the voltage is less than needed, he zenner diode or ZD pretends absent ie, allegedly ragged wire , and when the voltage is more than you need, he pretends to be a wire ie starts to freely conduct current. Imagine valve with spring, that's the same principle. It works like this. When the voltage is less than you need, a zener diode does not conduct current, all the current goes to the consumer. Water flow is low, the valve is closed. Water flow is high, the valve is opened and pouring out the excess water. Everything seems be fine, but there is no zener diode for high currents. This valve can only be a small diameter. Therefore, to make a stabilizer for high-current with the use of zener diode only is impossible. How to deal with it I will explain later. Linear stabilizer operates on the principle when the voltage is too high, it creates additional difficulties to pass through. The best comparison - the toilet water tank. If he level in the tank is small - the valve is open, the water is poured into it, if the level rises - the float pulls up, the valve is closing, the hole almost closed when water reached the correct level, the valve is closed. Flush, level dropped, the water ran out, and it all goes all over again. Same thing here, only it's very fast. On the first picture on the charts we see blue, red and green three phases of our generator passed through the diode bridge. It is worth to mention that we consider the processes occurring in only one full turn of the shaft of the generator, ie, in reality, there is a fact that the output has acidic battery as a HUGE capacity we get stable 14,5V. This is actually the norm of life for any system of stabilization of three-phase AC voltage. As I said earlier, the most likely cause of failure of the relay - the breakdown of any diode in the rectifier bridge. All because of one little diode, two of the three generator windings are converted into unnecessary stuff. The other two shown in brown dotted line - are dead for us from now. If you looked carefully at the charts, you probably noticed that the voltage at the survived phase rises up to nearly 25V. And in a working system it is no more than 10V. This is not a mistake. How did it happen? Very simple: Regulator scheme immediately suspects something is not right and decides at all costs, to keep required 14. But measuring the output voltage you are unlikely to find the correct voltage. It is worth noting that we speak of the shunt relay controller. This regulation is very different from car schemes and of course car regulators do not fit our problems. Namely, car voltage regulator regulates the current on the stimulating winding with the intent produce stable voltage on the stator. And motorcycle shunt relay controller works so: when the voltage across the winding of the stator winding is exceeded it shunts the generator winding, not giving the voltage to rise above provisions, and this is due to the fact that as the causative agent in the motorcycle a permanent magnet is used and it requires no excitation. Usually, it is easy to determine if you know where generator is located. If he has a separate building - it is likely, a generator with an excitation winding at anchor. If it is located inside the engine - a high probability is that it's the armature permanent magnet, which means somewhere our friend shunt regulator is hidden. On the picture, perhaps, the most complete regulator circuit is shown that can be found in the manual on Japanese motorcycles. Here we can see that the voltage from the three-phase alternator AC generator , driven by a permanent magnet, is rectified through three-phase diode bridge diode bridge highlighted in green and it all gets straight to the battery battery. In general, everything is simple, but there is a serious problem - a rectifying diode bridge is very heavily loaded and richly heated, because they are forced to overcome all the current produced by the generator through themselves. The most common failure of VR is the failure of one of the diodes, ie breakdown of any diode. In this scenario, the scheme does not cease to give tension, but no longer able to cope with its tasks. Note2: I couldn't find 14V Zener Diode, so I used 13V Diode like BZX55C13, it gave me 13. Same for the triac marking. On the above pictures with schemes power lines are highlighted thick, it is no coincidence. When assembling, you should use a serious copper wire of 2-2. Thin lines show the low-voltage lines, where you can take advantage of flexible thin wires. ULN2003 is better to buy a DIP package, because it is easier to operate with it's' pins. I gave both schemes, for 3-phase and three single-phase bridges, but I strongly recommend to make VR with three separated bridges, because it makes this VR almost ultimate. When you are supeshure in your layout you can cut out the ribs for parts. I gave my radiator to the miler, who cut the ribs, but the radiator needed much work after that because the cutout was very coarse. I took the rasp and finished the surface to perfectly fine. This step is HIGHLY important, because the better is the surface the better bridges and BTAs will adjoin to the radiator and it will guarantee good heat transfer. After that check the layout one more time and mark the holes for mounting. Drill holes, cut the screw-thread. Apply thermal paste, this is also VERY important. The CPU paste will do fine. I give the photos step-by-step, so comments are unnecessary. Nevertheless: You need to get an appropriate wire somewhere. Refer to the photos to see the wire thickness and bridges layout. Note how I bent BTA's and bridge's contacts. While soldering make make good warm-up of soldering spots and use flux, this must give you good shiny mirror-like soldering and will guarantee long work of the device. If the soldering spot is matted, then you either didn't heat it enough or didn't gave enough of flux. But try not to overheat. If you polished the heat-sink and applied the thermal paste, than the heat will transfer to heat-sink, spread and everything will be ok. Check 5 times how you located the bridges. Check not less than two times how you located the ULN2003A IC. Note, that I placed the resistor between 1st and 8th pin of ULN2003A under the IC, it gave me extra space for BTAs. Those wires must be very tough and multicore, all the load processed by VR is put on them. That is why I soldered two plus wires on opposite ends of the Plus Bus and two minus wires on sides of Minus Bus. My wires are 4 sq. Check if your wiring is correct again. Better print all the schemes and pages from datasheets to be sure. I know that I already make you sick, sorry for that, but check the wiring again before this step. I've checked my build even if I moved it from one table to another. You can never be 110% sure. First of all, check the integrity of the diode bridges, this poor thing suffer most. One way it has to beep in the opposite - no. The result must be the same. Requires replacement of a bridge or bending the rails. Personally I skipped further parts of this step, but you can check everything. If it does not work: somewhere screwed up or bought the faulty chip. Does not work: looking for faulty BTA semistors - change with a new one. In certain cases, when there is an fatal error made during mounting and soldering of the relay, the VR can issue a 300V! Therefore I recommend to use as a load 55-60W 12 V bulb connected directly to the battery like on the picture. Always, under all circumstances, keep terminals connected to the battery on a running motorcycle! If not, than this is a sure way to kill its brain! Start the bike an use multimeter to check the voltage on the output of VR. Generally, you need to find a zener diode so that the whole scheme gave the needed voltage. For a start try to understand what is the correct voltage. If an ordinary battery is acid, its rate of charge lays within 13. If the battery is gel, the rate is 14. Different sources say different. In general, it is of course the choice of each biker and everything depends on the specific conditions. I used a 13V zenner and had 13. Suit yourself depending on your power consumption Xenon lights or heat bulb, onboard music, etc. If you checked all you could check and everything works fine, than you are a winner, the whole thing can be filled with epoxy glue compound. If you want the scheme to work long and reliable, it is a mandatory part because of the bumps and dirt - it will not live long a day or two. For fans speed up the process: adding more thickener to glue, epoxy resin may lose their dielectric properties. So, in the preparation of the adhesive, follow the instructions. I'm bad at portioning so I bought epoxy with already measured amounts by caring dosing machines at the factory. Now you will need a plastic vessel, a syringe and gloves from nearby apothecary. All needed parts are on the fist photo. Transparent liquid is epoxy, near it stands hardener. Make a very good bath in your heat sink. I made my out of paper sticky, it seeped from all holes. Better make it out of baking wax paper and turn it with duct tape. The problem is caused bu the epoxy at the time it process a chemical reaction. It heats up to 60 degrees Celsius and nearly begins to boil letting out all the gases and bubbles. It also becomes very fluent unlike it is at the start of reaction. Pure epoxy and hardener together, mix it well, follow instructions on the box or wherever they are. Watch for the bubbles gather together into big ones. At the start 30 minutes or so you can help small bubbles to gather into big ones, afterwards look on the consistency of the epoxy not to make craters on the surface. Wait 24h or whatever is written on your epoxy box. I built one for a Kawasaki ZX12 and it works well. The phase voltage on the winding is 85 volts at 4000 RPM. The regulator regulates at 16 Volt. To reduce this I need to get a Zener with a lower voltage. Concern I have is the alternator crank case heats up very fast and can not be touched after a short period but the rest of the engine crank case is ice cold. When the energy is shunted I would believe the excess energy needs to be discipated in the windings. I am not sure if the original regulator set up had the same effect. The alternator is Delta connected as per workshop manual and all winding resistance is normal and not unbalanced. I understand as the speed goes up the frequency will change and the Inductive XL component of the Impeadance Z should play a major role and reduce the current flowing thereby reducing heat. I believe everything is working as it should but do not have any before temperature measurements on the original regulator. Has anyone on this group had any experiences like that. Second way of doing it is by building a thyristor AC to DC drive and chopping the wave to get the regulated DC voltage out. Unfortunately do not have a circuit with this design. You still need an American translator. The english used here will very likely cause misunderstanding s. Next time have an American spend the extra 15 minutes to proof read and correct your project. Your diagram is great as is most of your instructions. I bet your next project gets twice as many satisfied users. Which has 'many' variations in its meaning: kindness, gratification of other desires, and yielding to one's own inclinations. However, when using INSTRUCTION language, you should never use words left open to interpretation. Hi arizus thanks for explaining very detailed with large amount text and i love your circuit assembled on heat sink. Hi RahulS508, i've found on the Web a schematic of Yamaha RX135 that i attach to my answer; if your bike has this precise wirings and components scheme please do verify you are luky because this is a simple single-phase design.